The Durrells (Davis’!!) in Corfu

If you are a PBS fan like we are maybe you have watched the Durrells in Corfu.  It’s a story about a single mother from England who brings her four children to this island before WW 2.   The book was written by a Durrell with some similarities to their life but much more elaboration and fantasy. Anyway we were excited to actually get to this destination  and see it for ourselves.  Our tour was with Corfu Taxi Tours and the fellow we communicated with was Spiros the same name as one of the main characters in the show.   Our driver was a very neatly dressed man with a black Mercedes Benz car.  His English was fairly good although there were times we both were in a quandry  over language!  

We asked a lot of questions about the PBS show and he offered to take us to some of the areas where they filmed.  The house where they lived is privately owned and gated surrounded by the large trees one would see in the show.  The island is so completely different with a large population and of course much more modern although much of the same structures like tight narrow streets and small cafes and markets still exist.  

He took us to overviews of the city, told us that each village had a church , a school of sorts and an olive press.  Olives and tourism are their main economic revenues.  People still live very simply and seem to barely make ends meet.  Often their homes in the country are passed down from generation to generation and they all live together or if enough land is there they divide it with just enough land for a home and small garden or orchard of olives.  The olives are small and green and are caught by draping nets on the ground under them.  The ones for eating are picked by hand but the ones for oil are shaken by a machine and then collected in the nets.  They must be pressed the same day they are picked and then stored.  They pride themselves on extra virgin olive oil.  When they bring their olives to the press they can be reimbursed a number of ways:  crop sharing for a portion of the oil or sell all the oil outright.  They say their oil when capped is good for at least two years.  The olive trees only produce every other year so you have to plan ahead!  

The weather was perfect and our driver a delight. When we stopped for a tour or overview he dusted off his car and even cleaned the floor mats!  Maybe a bit of a perfectionist?  But he said he owns the car and works for the company. He has two young boys and lives on the outskirts of the city.  

All in all we really enjoyed our time here and seeing all of the sights we saw with our personal guide. 

First overlook of the island 

Ships in the harbor 

Our ship 

Our car with the driver checking out his tires!!

The fog hanging in the valleys


Beautiful gates and old doors 

Small villages with the stone streets

Each community tries to sell their wares

Lots of small cafes 

We hiked up to an old castle and fortress 



View from the top of the castle

A stop for refreshments 

The donkey is still an important means of transportation 

Our driver treated us to home made fresh bread, home grown tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. We also had olives and sweet cumquats.  

A little cumquat wine!


A visit to a summer palace of the empress of Austria.  

Empress Elizabeth.  She was infatuated with her looks and figure. Her only son died and she never got over it. She only stayed in this palace for two summers after it was built! 








The ceiling in the entry way. 

All in all a wonderful day and a nice evening sailing away with our friends on the back decks. 

Another Unesco World Heritage Site Kotor, Montenegro

Sunday we cruised into Kotor, Montenegro with sunny skies and a temperature around 75 degrees.  We really have been fortunate with the weather so far.  We slept good with such comfortable beds Snd quiet hallways but we were up early to get prepared as this stop was a tender stop so now when you get your tender tickets all guests in your party must be present and ready to go.  The tickets were available at 8 at a lounge so we met our friends around 7:45 and walked together ready to go.  As always if you don’t go ashore there are lots of things to keep you busy onboard.  Sometimes it’s great to have the ship almost to yourself!  The last tender was scheduled for 4:30 so we always want to give ourselves plenty of time to get there before the last one sails.  Our excursion was booked with a third party for 5 1/2 hours going with a group of about 12.  We met at the port as soon as we could get off the ship.  We were taken to the old walled city of Koror where we could explore on our own and then meet back up at a designated time.  Even though it’s fall there were several ships in port so it still is crazy getting into places without feeling crowded.  But we strolled through the old city reading many of the history markers. 

Located along one of the world's most beautiful bays is Kotor, a city of traders and famous sailors, with many stories to tell. The Old City of Kotor is a well preserved urbanization typical of the middle Ages, built between the 12th and 14th century. Medieval architecture and numerous monuments of cultural heritage have made Kotor land on the UNESCO's World Natural and Historical Heritage Site list.

Our driver didn’t speak English very well and many of us were disappointed in his tour guiding abilities but live and learn and even without much from him we enjoyed our day here. After the tour of the old city we headed back along the bay to the lovely small city of Perast also seeing Our Lady of the Rocks with a short boat ride.  After that we took another boat ride to Tovar where we had free time for a walk or lunch.  Having so much food onboard the ship we typically opt for the walk!!

Back on board we enjoyed dinner on the Lido as we sailed off toward Corfu and then some jazz and blues at BB Kings bar heading to bed early to get ready for our next port. 

Entrance into the old city 

Inside the city are quaint areas for cafes, bars, shops and resting.

 

There were many churches within the old city. Every religion tried to outdo the other.  

Look how closely the church is to other building t’s. Just enough room to walk between buildings.  Every hi g was tightly fit together. 

Inside one of the small churches. A very ornate and detailed alter. 

At a high point looking out toward the harbor. 

Plants and beautiful flowers add to the ambiance of each neighbor and bring people closer to nature in such small abodes. 

The quaint village of Perast 

More old churches and architecture 

A private island retreat we passed on our way to the Lady of the Rocks Church 

They say sailors took rocks when they left the port and dropped them at this location eventually firming the small island which houses the Lady of the Rocks Church. A fable but a good story. 


The beach here with a few sun bathers but mostly a rocky pebble beach not nice fine sand 

A look out point along the harbor area 

On to Tivat 

A fellow playing an old harpsichord type of instrument with his can put fir donations by a large historic church 

A wedding was happening as we strolled by. They were a lovely couple posing for photos. 


A final overview of this area before we bus back to the ship. 

Next stop will be Corfu!!  I’m excited for this port.  Another early night making sure we are up early and ready to go. 

Dubrovnik, Croatia

After months of planning we are finally ready for our first port Dubrovnik.  As with most ancient cities Dubrovnik or at least the old city is surrounded by a massive wall to protect the port city from invaders.  I like to investigate the ports as much as possible before I get there or book a tour but nothing can take the place of actually BEING there seeing for oneself the beauty, culture, and amazing detailed craftsmanship that remains from thousands of man hours slaving away on the construction of  buildings, churches and settlements.  

Our arrival to this port was mid day at 12:30. The weather was in the mid 70’s, just about perfect.  We would be in port to 10:30 pm which isn’t typical of most cruise ships. The cruise line arranged for shuttle buses to take us to the city center for a price of $16 per person. You could come and go as often as you wanted.  But we had a tour which would pick us up at the port area so no need for the shuttle. Lots of folks were upset with the cost and in many regards I don’ t blame them.  It seems reasonable that if the vendors want your business they would offer free shuttles. Folks pay a lot of money just to get to the port and then they ask for more.  Oh well!  

Dubrovnik is a lovely unique city. Medieval walls enclose the old city. There is a cable car which can take you to the top of Mount Srd to view all from atop.  You really take a step back in time.  This city is located in the southern portion of Croatia in the coast of the Adriatic Sea.   There are Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture here. Outside of town there are beautiful and lush countrysides. The small neighboring town on Cavtat is a quaint town also. 

We hired a driver to take the four of us on a tour.  His English was ok but not the best.  It was interesting that he always wanted to take photos of the four of us!!  Ha ha. I guess he thought all tourists want their photos taken at viewpoints so we just agreed. He took us to areas that had been bombed during WW 2 and never rebuilt like the presidential palace along the beach.  It was very sad. He said there just was no money from the government to rebuild.  Some of the hotels near the presidents mansion were also military and they too have never been rebuilt.   

At the town of Cavtat he gave us about 45 minutes to walk this old city which was lovely. We quickly found an inviting outside table and enjoyed an adult beverage!  After meeting back up with our driver he took us to a posh hotel with a beautiful overlook And clean bathrooms that did not require payment. It is common and typical to have to pay a euro or half euro to use a toilet and they are not easy to find!  

Our tour ended at the old city where he let us off which gave us plenty of time to explore.  We paid to walk the walls which was a good workout and a unique perspective. Of course like everything there are too many tourists even at this time of year. The days of enjoyable travel I fear are gone.  After a thorough walk thru of the old city we decided our tired feet were ready for a rest so we hailed a taxi that would take us back to our ship.  It was a great first port day enjoyed by all of us. 

The bombed presidents summer palace 

Inside the palace it has been ransacked and no plans of being rebuilt 

Beautiful churches everywhere. 

Enjoying our adult beverages !

Inside the walled city...stepping back in time 

I’m a fan of old doors and windows. They speak to me...  who walked through their doors over the ages or peered through their panes? 

Beautiful niches everywhere and craftsmanship that has endured through time ...

 The walk to the top of the wall is steep and not for the faint hearted! 

A view from the top of the wall. 

Old fortresses and castles that were points of strength over ones enemies. 

The work on these walls must have been grueling.  

One understands the positioning of being poised from a spot high above the coastline to see pirates and marauders.

This old walled city boasts the only “ cat museum” and the sign in the pit behind Dan asks for money to support the cats and museum. The cats were everywhere and seemed to be revered and well taken care of. 

Outdoor cafes and intimate seating filled the alleyways and courtyards. 


Thank you to all who let me know you’re following us and we’re able to leave comments!!  We read every comment and appreciate them.  

Next stop Kotor, Montenegro 

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