Friday, November 22, 2019

Oh!! The Alhambra!!

Our stop today is Malaga, Spain.  Another lovely day with temperatures  in the mid 70’s.   The ship docked at 8 and we were off as quickly as we could get through security.   We booked a shared tour on a big bus to see The Alhambra.  Folks say if you come here you must see this and so we each paid 79 euros for the day trip which was a good price.  Our guide was native and gave us information along the way.  The Alhambra is in the city of Granada.  It was basically a two hour drive to get there with a stop for a bathroom break and a snack.  They say nothing in all of Spain compares to the wealth of architectural art found in the 14th century Alhambra.  It is another UNESCO site. The tour involved a lot of walking with very little time for stopping.  We were told to bring our passports with us and that there would be several checkpoints along the way where security could ask for them.  Security was tight and guided lines were long.  We had to weave in and out of locations waiting for groups to shift but the gardens and our guide were wonderful and he was extremely knowledgeable and proud of his heritage and the history of the area.  

Here are some highlights and notes from the trip:


Malaga is the 5 th largest city in the country.  

650000 inhabitants 


Malaga is booming with new housing and apartment developments

We see as with many stops Bougainvillea, olive trees, oleander and Lantana.  Things look dry here and we hear most places haven’t had much rain. Often we have seen cactus

We climb to a mountain pass and along the way we see cypress trees and a variety of others that make the landscape more interesting .  The roads are good and our large bus comfortable.  The terrain becomes hilly and spotted with white stucco homes.  All the rivers run dry.  The hiway was built in 1992.  As they celebrated the discovery of America in this year they also rebuilt roads and made some great improvements.  Now it is a divided four lane hiway.  


Almond groves now become visible. They bloom in February and our guide says the hills are white with the flowers.  Their almonds are used for cosmetics, oil and milk.  


Properties are small here. Small farms. Barley wheat olives sesame seeds different vegetables.  No bigger than 50 acres. 


3000 years ago olive trees were brought here and were planted.  The Phoenicians came with their hands and faces painted in red establishing many different villages and trading posts.  They brought first donkeys and hens and their written alphabet.   

Spain is largest olive oil producer in the world.  47%.  Italy Greece Portugal Israel compete with them.  Most production comes from the southern part of Spain. Black olives and green olives are the same. From same tree.  Black olives just stay on the tree longer and are harvested later. 


We enter into the very fertile valley where water from the Sierra Nevada Mountain range is used for crops growing everything you can imagine.  The farms are clean and well taken care of.  The area at one time was heavily covered in forest but in the early 1500’s they took the trees for ship building and left open land that is now fields. 

Alhambra was part of the moors.  Catholics took over with the Christian crusade of moors and Muslims. 

Christians conquered much of Spain. 


Alhambra is called the red castle because the first king had red hair. Castle of the red 

Three different sections of the Alhambra were established and built. 

Administration. Throne and then the Private apartment for the sultan and royal family

Three generations of sultans built it

But in 1526 there were chambers built to be able to escape should the need arise. 

Bath houses were important. Men bathed in the morning and women and children in the afternoon. At least five public bathrooms houses were built.  Bathing and soaking  were very social experiences.   Africa found a gateway through Spain.  African moors had simple castles outside but ornate inside.  

Most silk produced in Granada was sold to Italy 

Granada was a rich area due to trade and crops. 


The two most important Spanish words that will get you around Spain... vino and mass!!  More wine!!


The Alhambra was deserted and left a a di Ed during the 18th century and not rediscovered or taken care of until the 19th century.  It was initially a walled fortress or city and later became home to royalty.  


It is still a well taken care of beautiful historical place.  The magnificence of it can only be realized by visiting. The running water and fountains along with beautiful gardens and vistas will over take you 



A view of the country as we travel up into the highlands to the Alhambra.  Notice the olive trees in the distance and the dry field below. 

Our guide ... we all have individual head sets so we can hear him as he speaks into a small microphone. 

Part of the gardens with the fortress in view

This is how they trim many of the Cypress and huge junipers!!

Water features are everywhere with beautiful peaceful mirrored images 


Yet another water feature always clean and gently flowing all done with no pumps!


Blooming colorful gardens manicured to perfection

One of the palaces that was never finished in side.  The royal family ran out of money after years constructing the outside!  The outside structure was an awesome wonder of craftsmanship and detail. 

Inside the palace you see the huge courtyard which should have been covered with a roof but as they ran out of money it now stands like this!!

Inside the private royal residence this is a ceiling! 

Original wood ceilings!!


Original tiles on the wall with the still brilliant colors from the 9th century or earlier!!!



Look at this original stone work!!! Can you imagine abandoning this site???

The massive wood doors to the palace. 

A ceiling in the original moorish residence!  The location of the spheres all means something. Above this ceiling which was extremely high was a false ceiling where the king could listen to what was being said below in secret and also where he could hide from intruders!  

More beautiful reflections from the water features 

A ceiling in the moorish residence which is still beautiful and colorful.  


These were bath houses built in this shape with holes for light and steam to escape!!



More beauty and unusual architecture in the courtyard of the residence. With the lion fountain in the background 

Closer view

Can you believe this ceiling??!!!



More gardens and water

Lovely tile walkways and views 

Heading home to the ship after a full day!!  


Tomorrow is Cádiz. 

Thursday, November 21, 2019

The “New City” Cartagena, Spain

After a few relaxing days we were back at it to get off for a day of sightseeing in Cartagena.   Our ship docked around 8 and the weather was a perfect 75 degrees.   If one stayed onboard there were a variety of things to occupy your time like pickleball, mahjong, bridge, ping pong, Trivia, or just lounging by the pool under sunny skies.  

Cartagena as you guessed is a port city but also a naval base for Murcia’s region. It was founded by the Carthaginians  around 229 BC.  It boomed during the Roman period. Among its many Roman ruins are a 1st century BC theater and Casa de la Fortunate, a villa with murals and mosaics.  There were a plethora of ancient sites to visit here if that is your passion including the Religious Art and History Museum, Elche a UNESCO World Heritage site boasting an amazing microclimate that has enabled the creation of one of the worlds largest palm forests!  There are monasteries and sanctuaries along with botanical gardens and amazing views.  

Because we had so many booked tours we decided to get off here and peruse the options not really making set plans.  We knew there was a hop on hop off bus so figured that too is a great way to see a lot in a short period of time.  Here are some short snippets  of information about this interesting city;

Romans lived here 600 years then Arabs influenced it

Romans took the city from Hannibal the Great 2200 years ago

60,000 men and 60,000 war elephants

Romans got rich from city mines 

Manhole covers now show the story of their history 

Modern naval port

Submarines here are in dry dock

City access is easy

Tourist trolley and hop on hop off

Not a sprawling city. Good for walking 

Carlos the 3rd was king during time of mid 1700’s and he built most of the fortification walls

Nouveau architecture is found here 

Lots of shoes and handbags are for sale due to leather being readily available 

Underwater archaeology museum is found here!

Roman theater was rediscovered not long ago. Now they charge to see it. 

Romans conquered the Punic people or early Carthaginians and remains are left in a museum. They are trying to excavate and restore more ruins

Peral  submarine is here which is the first all electric made in 1888 bring about the small size of a stage; it’s now in the naval museum

Naval base for the Spanish Armada 

Bateria de castiitos. Shot cannons 35 miles and protected the port

Torrevieja.  Pink lake town used their salt 

Asiatico coffee has alcohol. Coffee cream and liquor is very sweet and found at most cafes.  

Euro is currency



The old Roman theater. 



Still used fir some outdoor concerts

They are saving fronts of historic old buildings and then building around them!!



Nice playground within the city


Beautiful tiled streets all different !!  And the architecture:)



Interesting statues dedicated to historically significant people

We found the Asiatico coffee!!  It was delicious and inexpensive. 

Easily I could have had three more cups!

The soldiers who fought for Spain. 

More lovely tildes streets and architecture to admire. 


Isn’t this a unique way to recycle and save the sea??!!


Back onboard by 5:30 and a tasty meal at the Lido.  Entertainment was a comedian Jeff Burghart.  We got a kick out of him.  Then off to bed to get ready for our next port Malaga, Spain and a full day tour of the Alhambra!



Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Back to Civitavecchia

After Pompeii it was back to the port of Civitavecchia where many of our passengers disembarked flying home or taking on more land travel.  We were SO glad we didn’t have to pack up and get off.  The crew shared with us that we would have about a 100 less passengers doing the next leg.  We expected even an older crowd to board because we knew that that age group liked the trans Atlantic crossings.  At first we thought we would get off the ship and look around the Piet but we met a few folks that said because it was Sunday not much would be open and that to get to anywhere in this town you would need a taxi.  We were thinking we could walk but that changed our plans. Instead we slept in and had fun having the ship more to ourselves.  We watched later on as folks boarded and noted their excitement as they explored their home for the next two weeks!  

There was a muster drill at 4:00 but surprisingly we didn’t have to attend!  They had a sail away on the Sea View Pool and we attended. The weather was mid 70’s and sunny. That night they showed the movie on the big screen, “The Talented Mr. Ripley” but other than that there was no show. Instead the EXC guide Brett talked about the next port, Cartagena, Spain.  We had no plans for that port but decided we could watch it later in our stateroom.  

We had a nice dinner in the lido with our friends and then entertained ourselves with some card games on the pool deck.  


The next day we were at sea.   Weather cooled to mid 60’s.  The shore excursions folks talked about things to see and do at upcoming ports followed by another EXC talk on Cádiz and Malaga.  This was a Gala night which means fancy dress up clothes if you choose to and formal photos which we always skip. In the afternoon they talked about the Azores and I did attend that talk. 

There was another meet and greet for new folks put on by Cruise Critic.  Betsy and I attended and I passed  out raffle tickets that I brought.  There was a good group of folks and lots of good door prizes were had.  The ship provides coffee, tea, cookies and water.  Folks that had interests in things like pickleball, cards, games, etc met up and talked.  Dan was interested in pickleball so I got info for him and I found out about the tea to discuss the new Downton Abbey movie to be held.  

Entertainment that night was Postmodern Jukebox which is a group that takes new music and performs it like it was back in the 50’s.  It isn’t our cup of tea and we didn’t attend.  

Our next day would be Cartagena from 8-6 so we were off to bed and a movie in our room.   


This is the new look for the theater!!  Pretty sterile 


Some of our sail away photos 


Sunsets are awesome and peaceful 



Nothing like sunset from the ship. 

Sunday, November 10, 2019

Sea Day Then Pompeii!

After 6 port stops all in a row I think all passengers sighed a bit relief knowing g finally we had a sea day where one could sleep in, wash out a few clothing items or send them off to be done and have a day to enjoy the boat or their comfy staterooms. We have changed time quite a few times losing an hour so that too disrupts you’re sleep cycle.  But we know when we head west again those hours will come back to us and we will really feel refreshed.  

Sea days give you time to explore more about what the ship offers, browse the shops which are always having so wrong on sale, and peek into other areas like pay for dining venues or peruse the casino ( not so much for me as the smell of smokiness lingers ). But you also can check out the Dutch Cafe area with its cute cafe that just out into the deck area, or the Crows Nest where they have scheduled events all day long.  You could take time to talk to a future cruise person who tries to sell you on upcoming cruises within the next two years.  I enjoyed listening to the Food and Beverage Director and Chief Chef talk about themselves, their work and answer questions from the passengers. Then I headed to a talk by one of the onboard speakers who spoke about some of the next upcoming areas we would dock at.  Their information is very different. They don’t talk about diamonds to buy and shops but more about the history of the area, ways to get around including buses, taxis, shuttles, trains, etc.  Their talks are from their experiences there and they want to point out places to see and visit fir a variety of reasons. The talks have been packed and you need to be there at least 1/2 hour before they begin!!

We met up with our friends Chuck and Betsy and we enjoy lunch together outside on the pool deck and then settle in for games including hand and foot, Triominos and Farkle!  

The day passes with beautiful seas to peruse outside our table location by the window and sunny skies with scattered skimming clouds. 

All of the sudden it’s time for dinner and we give way to choosing from a variety of options. After that we might attend the entertainment in the theater or watch a movie under the stars , keep playing games, walk to a music venue or call it a night.  Tonight we decided to  get ready for our next port of call Pompeii.  

We take a third party tour here and our guide gives us lots of information along the EXC talk the ship provides.   The city was  buried in ash 79 ad.  The eruption lasted 4 days. No lava here was spewed on the city just ash. The same ash was found  in Positano which was 25 ft of ash. In 1748 they started digging but to this day 1/3 still is buried.  

There are 175 acres in the complex. 

It takes a full week to really see everything there is to see and read all the information provided. 

There are many layers built upon each other. Built 800 years before Christ by first the Greeks then Romans.  Anything made of  wood burned and ceilings collapsed. 

At the heights of the city there were over 600 shops and stores!

Position was important for trading as a city and it was surrounded by mountains fir protection. The Theater 

was open air used as a foyer by Ronan’s to visit.  

Gladiators also trained in open areas.  In  1974 it was used as a theater for concerts which must have been amazing. 

All wood ceiling gone but other ceilings are over 2000 years old.  5000 people could sit in the big theater with 1000 in small theaters for music performances. 

Original marble was imported from areas close to Florence. First section of seating was for vip’s with cushions on their chairs!  Second section for men divided by caste system. Women were able to sit on the top

Comedy and drama were performed in the theater which had  no roof. Shows lasted an entire day. 

Shows were free to all of the city. 

Politicians paid for all to get elected meaning the more money you had the more likely you could pay off citizens to get elected!  Two main roads were Greek built 

with 7 gates into the city of Pompeii.  Streets are made of basalt and you can still see the original tracks of iron wheels that rolled through them.  Stepping stones were used to cross safely as garbage and water ran in streets. No drainage was really built into the streets so the large stepping stones were necessary for safety. 

Roads built for these streets were made fir the citizens and the size of their carts and wagons.  Other countries that cane to the area had to rent carts or vehicles that were here as their means of transportation wouldn’t be able to pass over the stepping stones.  There were 31 bakeries at the time the city was booming and different ones for different cultures.  All shops had tracks for sliding wooden doors so those who uncovered the ruins knew how to determine they were shops. Upper floors were for houses or other small shops.  

Pompeii is one of the biggest archeological sites in the world and a Unesco site.  1/3 of Pompeii is still buried.  

20,000 people lived here at one time. There were 4 public baths fir the population.  They were like a swimming pool with small stalls for massage. Also a gym and it was sectioned off for male and female. .  Men’s was larger than the women’s. Women had warm and steam rooms.  It was thought that cold water was dangerous for women and prompted infertility.  

Big water system were made out of lead for piping it. 

Lots of poor health disease resulted from this and  men typically died at 40!  Women were usually around 29 when they died and often at child birth.   You can still see the original floors and roof in the men’s bath along with 

the Lockers and waiting room.  They baths and massage areas had  heated floors and tubs. They used wood for ovens ti heat the water and floors. Then  after the steam room you could join others in the cool room


All marble decorations were used in the public rooms. 

Phalic symbol was used often and to the Greeks and Romans it meant good luck or to show direction to show what a store owner has.  Here you can see the only  marble fountain with a phalic symbol  for good luck

all markets were open air  with one side being fruits and vegetables and then other side a fish market.  

The coast line used to be right at the gate of Pompeii but after the eruption it moved almost 4 kilometers away. 


There was a tsunami and earthquake along with the eruption. Scientists say it won’t erupt for another 3 thousand years!!

Small stones white in the streets reflected light to show people the way 


Our tour took us then along the Amalfi coast to the quaint and lovely city of Sorrento.  It was obvious that this city is a resort area and full of beautiful flowers, lovely hotels and delicious restaurants.  Small tight streets are bursting with vendors selling everything you could ever need or imagine. 


We go thru three tunnels to get to Sorrento and then 

through the Milky Mountains.  

Green houses here are a big thing.  Greenhouses are everywhere. Lots of immigrants and poor people live in government housing. There are no jobs which makes for a more unsafe area outside the cities. 


The local area produces grapes, lemons,  and olive oil.  

It took  23 years to build the five meter  tunnel that leads us in and out if Sorrento. We pass Lantana, Hibiscus,  cactus, and the Potatoe plant along with 

Oleander, lemon, and Bougainville.  While in Sorrento we enjoy a delicious lunch of pizza in a traditional locally owned cafe. 


Back to ship after a full day!!



What it might have looked like during the eruption 



The large open area for markets 

Entering one of the large theaters 

A huge area which must have been amazing!!



One can’t believe these are still standing and how much work it took to build all of this. 

A view of the theater from the top.  Dan didn’t climb to the top because of his cough and cold :(



Stepping stones in the street and the grooves from wagon and cart wheels still present



Huge stepping stones 



Original colored ceilings in the bath houses!



Original beautiful ceilings in the bath houses



The large pools 



The phalic symbol pursued shop owners shops still very much visible!



An original one of a kind fountain still standing that is marble and also represents the phalic symbol 



The open market structure where fish were sold



Look at the beautiful stone work of the walls and imagine the times here 



Dan and Chuck pondering what to order at the authentic Sorrento restaurant 



Our menu cover!



Ah! It was pizza and delicious!



A beautiful historic church in the Sorrento square 

A view from the town out to the ocean between the deep chasm that exists with the highway taking up the space. 

Oh boy!  Imagine giving your neighbor oil as a gift from these glass containers!



Want some sexy pasta??!!

The street markets are lovely to behold with all those colorful fruits and vegetables 


Streets are clean here and everything is for sale 



The Amalfi coast 

Flowers are still blooming along the route

A stop at the Limoncello store and restaurant. 

The view!!


A fun tasting spot with a lovely ambiance.  




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