Even though we watched hours of you tube videos trying to learn what we could about all these ports it still doesn’t totally prepare us for the in person visit. I wrote to some folks I met on the Grand Africa that were doing this trip in the spring and asked for advice and information. It was all noteworthy and helpful in different ways. Those of you who travel totally get this. And I’m a bit obsessive with making calendars, lists, notes, documents, and filing things in many different digital places on my phone and in the cloud along with the of course ever necessary paper copy!!! To be honest I love sharing my “preparations” with others!! Ha ha. Some want to hire me to do it for them, others are wingers as I call them and don’t want a schedule or any previous knowledge. I get that too. We have those days always when traveling because no plan is without exception and to enjoy travel you have to accept weather, rude people, cancelled ports and breakdowns :). We have experienced them all.
We do have a tour here mostly because it’s a distance to travel by cab, the price was right going through Cruise Critic and a third party vendor and we wanted to learn more of the history. Salaverry is in Peru. It is a small town and nothing spectacular but you can go on to Trujillo which is about a 30 mile drive and learn about the Moche and Chimi people. Chan Chan is also an interesting adobe site with many compounds and ceremonial centers.
Trujillo is the nations second largest city beautifully situated before the Andean foothills. Most of the history is evident through the old churches, balconies homes and courtyards that feature overhanging flowering baskets. There are some historic mansions that are open to the public and of course museums featuring ancient pottery. But some of the real treasures were long ago raided and stolen by the Spaniards and booty hunters.
The currency here is the Sol and the US dollar goes a long way. From here you might venture to Machu Picchu or Cusco but not for us.
Most of what we saw was ancient desert areas that had been uncovered but housed nothing. Everything was gone. We visited the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon which were considered the center of power . The moon was felt to have more power because it could be seen during the day!!!
The Moche people existed 100 years before Christ. Their reign lasted over 1000 years. As others before in hot dry climates they built aqueducts to bring water to cultivate food. They were the first to have introduced purple corn. Living near the coastline they were excellent fishermen and also excelled at architecture and Huaca pyramids built out of adobe. These areas are UNESCO sites.
In the 1980’s they unearthed a man covered in guaze with many jewels under the covering. They expect he was a Lord or royalty. Shortly after that discovery they found a woman also wrapped with jewels and felt she was a Queen or priestess.
The Moche were goldsmiths and made things out of copper. They used birds and landscapes in their buildings and also displayed sexual acts! Their culture died out because of a long lasting severe drought. Most starved to death.
Chimu culture then developed. Their culture was closely related to the Inca culture. The Incas conquered them and destroyed them. The Chimu as with other cultures performed human sacrifices.
Chan Chan is largest adobe city in the world that provides insight to the indigenous people of this area.
In a bit more of history General Salaverry was a politician and soldier being the spurned chief of Peru. The port facilitated trade and commerce connecting Peru and beyond. It is a small town now. Main squares are called plazas. Now we are in springtime here. The further we move from the equator of course we become drier and cooler. The Peruvian currency, the Sol, is named after the Sun God. The capital is Trujillo which is about 23 miles away. The main dance here is called the Marinera. Sand boarding on the dunes is a popular activity.
The dance!!!
The port area
Their large cross on the hill. The areas main religion is Catholicism. Notice all the grain containers and the Peruvian flag.
These little tuk tuks or trikes were everywhere and colorfully decorated
There were several areas we passed that looked like fun places for children to visit.
Now get ready for the next few photos. Remember that fertility was important to the indigenous people. One of the passengers saw all these sculptures and shared them with me. A little shocking but in full public view .
No explanation needed!
Entering the National UNESCO Mochi area
There is always a place selling something cold to drink or ice cream!
Our guide sharing about this dry desert area
And locals sharing some of their hand made crafts to support the Mochi Foundation.
For such a dry desert area you wouldn’t think there was much to learn here but here are a few more facts: the Totora Reeds are used for making small individual boats
The Moche Valley has rich soil which yields crops 2-3 times per year
It took millions of bricks to build all of the temples and meeting areas where they collected taxes, had sacrifices and sold goods
The Spaniards introduced many plants to the area during the travels back and forth
Rivers from the mountains provide their irrigation
Many don’t finish their homes to avoid the high taxes
There are 60 valleys in Peru that produce crops and have their own special values and wealth
Different ancient growing areas and valleys
These were the meeting areas which were built layer upon layer
Many of the beautiful colors were washed away through rain and erosion
Moche were very sophisticated in ceramic quality and art
They cultivated more green lands than today
Moche River is in the Moche valley
32 years ago they started excavation of the archeological site. The Moche built layer after layer over top their base to expand it and fill in the bottom layers for stability. All of the treasures have been looted.
This chart shows which bricklayer made which bricks or where they were from!! Each had their own insignia
The large statue in the center of town depicts liberty and freedom with one man suffering one man making an effort to be free and the middle man depicting freedom
Stripes are the ocean on the walls of the structures pelicans were at the bottom and fish were swimming.
Seafood was very important as a food source making up 65% of their diet.
This area at one time was full of water and during the full moon they would offer many human sacrifices so the Gods would provide good social benefits to the people. The best of the warriors were sacrificed.
Small reed boats for single person to fish from
Incas later took over Chan Chan who had come in after the Moche died.
They have been studying this area for 85 years and Harvard University has been here 11 years with a permanent archaeologist.
Royalty practiced polygamy and a king could have
55-90 wives in royal family. Hundreds of children were born to the royals.
The area was very cosmopolitan and powerful.
When human sacrifice was made they cut their throats and saved their blood. It was symbolic and religious.
The town now lacks pride and cleanliness with lots of trash and garbage scattered everywhere.
Currently they are not excavating the ruins till more funds come available which could be a long time.
We are here on the balcony of this building overlooking the ocean
Our friends Linda and Andy!
A cold one!
The local beer
Our snack of cheese covered scallops!
And our ship painted with our epic voyage !!!
A stack of the reed boats. You could rent them to try out.
