“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.” Marcel Proust

Beijing and Xian 

My blog here is going to be somewhat muddled.  I’m injecting notes about the cities along with personal notes from our tours. 

Cypress is the city tree here and the 

Chinese rose is the flower.  They definitely have four seasons.  We have boarded a 14 passenger van and met our guide Cissi and her driver a heavy smoker who knew no English and was not too attentive to all of us. We were told that we were 

three hours from the port to Beijing.  So that started our three hour bus journey on the fast highway 

All of China is on same time. They never change their clocks. 

25 million people live in Beijing and 8 million in Tianjin which is the port city. The car made in China is called the Red Flag.  There are 34 provinces  in China. Every province has its own dialect.   All children only learn in Mandarin at school.  Intonations of the same word mean very different things.  There are 10 people in our small group.  One of them is Canadian and she arranged our tour with Odyssey Tours.  The day is sunny but cool.  We will first have lunch after taking three hours to get to Beijing.  Then on to site seeing and learning more of the culture.  Tonight we stay at the Peace Novotel Hotel.  As we drove the highway from the port to the city the roads were good and they were lined with large and varied trees of which many were changing color.  The area was clean and traffic going out was was very manageable.   There were hundreds of tall apartment buildings near the port and cell towers seemed to be everywhere too.   The further from the port we got the less housing and manufacturing we saw.  The smog increased as  we got closer to the city and the trees looked stressed.  The guide said they are planting more trees to help with the air pollution.   There seems to be building going on all over with cranes at the top of high rises.  Dan is still not feeling well. He has not eaten much for two days and as we spend these hours on the bus he is sleeping.  His cold seems better but now he complains of his stomach hurting.  We hear there are others also feeling this way.  Our overnight bag is stuffed with all the cold and stomach medicines we have!!

One fellow on our bus became ill about an hour on the bus.  He threw up violently twice and his wife thought it was due to something at breakfast but no one knew.  It was pretty tough listening and watching this and I was right behind him.  The guide said we were too far from the hotel to take him there until after lunch and we couldn’t go back to the ship or the rest of us would not have time for our tour in Beijing so we continued in with him laying across the back of the seats on the bus.  

We don’t see birds except for one magpie at the top of a tree.  We both bought a bottle of water before we left the ship.  We will try to only drink bottled water now and only eat hot foods staying away from fruit and salads.  The other thing we have to look for is American-style toilets!  We must have our own toilet paper too.  The rest rooms do not have coat or purse hooks either so there are some challenges ! Ha ha. 

  

We passed many tree nurseries also and the water sources look very clean.  But I think I am beginning to smell the pollutants in the air and it is a bit distressing.   

I can totally see why people on the ship would not want a day tour to Beijing.  You would have  at least 6 hours in the bus coming and going from the city.  They told the passengers to plan on a 12 hour day if you did the day trip.  The ship offers a tour to see the Terracotta Warriors.  They charge $3000 per person for this tour. We paid $1000 per person which includes four nights lodging, two guides, the bus portion , our airfare and all fees.   And we have a nice small group.  This was the way to go.  This morning for the first time we had room service breakfast and it was delicious!!  We shared a ham and cheese omelet with potatoes, fruit and toast. We each had a glass of juice and then toast with s cute selection of jams.  The coffee was hot and came with a covered container of cream.   Since Dan wasn’t feeling so good this was much easier.  After about an hour the phone rang and it was room service calling to ask if our breakfast was satisfactory!!!  The choices for breakfast are excellent.  I’m thinking I might do this a few more times.  We chose the 6-6:30 delivery time and it came promptly at 6.   

We came to a border for Beijing. If you enter this province from another you must have a pass and you pay for that. 

Wednesday we first started the tour going to the Temple of heaven.  It really is a garden that the emperor had built to worship his father beginning with the Ming dynasty. 

We noticed rental bikes everywhere and our guide told us that it takes 1 yen for half an hour to rent a bike bike. You use your phone to register and rent the bike. They are yellow. When you leave the bike and lock it then your rental time stops.  Our guide said drugs are forbidden in China and you get arrested and go to jail for treatment.  While their Congress is in session they are putting on their best face. No beggars are out because there are so many police.  They have planted beautiful fall flowers everywhere and are constantly cleaning the streets with strong water sprays and street sweepers.  She says it’s for clean streets but we discover later it is to wet down the particulates to keep them from being stirred up by vehicles and then it would be inhaled. They also have men sweeping with home made brooms out of bamboo.  They have several bike rental companies and they heavily compete.  The sun always looks masked with smog.   There are specific biking lanes and they are packed. No one wears s helmet and few have lights.  They do not stop for pedestrians.   They make good use of scooters and motorcycles attaching home made carts for children and cargo.   Cars here are not like Japan.  They are bigger and older.  Getting a new car is a lottery.  You must first get permission and a license plate before you can go purchase.  This is because of the over population and traffic congestion along with pollution.  In Japan one had to prove they had a parking garage or spot to park before they could purchase a car due to limited space.   

The Temple of Heaven built in 1420. This garden has much more grass than other gardens that was due to provide greater worship for the emperors father, who is God.  People over 65 can get in free to this area.  In 1949 this temple became public. No singing or dancing is aloud here because it is too loud.  It is to be much more worshipful.  No nails are in the building of the Temple of Heaven. It is all supported by 28 pillars.  The Emperor only would come here twice a year and just had a huge staff to care for it.  Ladies were not allowed to come on the park. They believed heaven was round and the earth was square so one outside wall was straight and one was round. 

The lamps were for candles to light it in the early morning. Now they are speakers.  

Mahjong here is a gambling game. !!  Sometimes they just play for 1/2 yen or if they are rich they played for 100 yen. 

Blue roofs represent the blue sky. Other temples had yellow roofs for emperors own color.  The Emperor had many concubines. The Emperor would face north on the second Story and face God in a special three day ceremony.  There were outside and inside ceremonies. 

Inside there are 12 pillars for 12 months. Outside the 12 pillars were representing the hours in the day. In the middle there are four pillars for the four seasons.  

Our lunch today was typical Chinese served family style.  Dan and I drank pop or beer.  We all asked for serving utensils and forks.  There were lots of vegetables, rice and dishes with beef and chicken. Our passenger that was ill stayed in the bus still sick. After we ate they dropped us off to walk past Tiananmen  Square and past all the buildings.  Then they took our friend and his wife to the hotel and later came back for us.  They also took us to the Palace Museum which is past the square. The areas are vast large squares which hold thousands of people.  You can’t enter hardly any of the buildings unless they are now souvenir shops are restaurants.  After viewing all these areas we went to a tea ceremony which was interesting but mostly a place where they try to sell you expensive tea.  No one bought any tea because prices were about $50 a box!!  We viewed the palace of earthly tranquility which was the home of the empress during the Ming dynasty built in 1420!  

Our hotel was the Peace Novotel and very lovely.  We quickly found out that AC or heat only works during certain months of the year and we had no control over the thermostats.  We were also expected to not flush the toilet paper in a five star hotel!!  That night we all went out to walk the area and have dinner.  The city was crazy!!  People shop day and night and the streets seemed very safe.  But the stores are all mostly big American names. Possibly the biggest Apple store is in Beijing.  They say all Apple store prices are the same no matter where you are in the world.   Wifi was horrible everywhere and all Google platforms blocked so we could not get email or send off the blog. We headed to bed and would head to the Great Wall the next day. 

We were up early and had coffee in our room.  The breakfast that the hotel provided was huge and the variety and selections were over the top!  Since it is so international everything you could think of was offered. A big surprise to us was seeing our passenger that had been so ill the day before up and ready to tour with us!!  Today our smog is bad in my opinion.  Our first stop was the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.  It was another massive temple with beautiful colorful eaves and layers.  Again we could not enter any of the buildings but could appreciate the cultural significance.  As we passed through from one area of temples to another we noted hundreds of senior citizens perched along the railings along the walk ways playing cards, knitting, gambling or enjoying some kind of game. They laughed and talked loudly.  Our guide said this is their daily entertainment in lovely garden areas.  Many smoked and it looked as though they all brought their lunches or snacks and drinks.  Because so many millions of people live in high rise apartments with their children this is their only way to socialize and get out.  

Once again we had a traditional Chinese lunch served family style.  Our restaurant was very cold as they don’t turn on heat until they absolutely have to. Our guide had them move us to a location where there was a portable heater and had them turn it on high for us.  I don’t think they were happy.   Some of our group would only ever eat rice because they were fearful of getting sick. 

Then it was on to the Great Wall. There are several entrances and areas to access the wall but our tour took us to the one with the cable car access.  It was the highlight of our time in Beijing.  For me it was humbling and spiritual just thinking of all those that have their life building the wall and also the cruelty and anguish that have taken place in relation to building and patrolling the wall.  It is an amazing feat and astonishing to see.  The day was so overcast with smog that the views were disappointing.  But we spent almost three hours there and enjoyed every minute.  We walked to three towers and back and paid for the stamp and special souvenir box documenting with my name that I had been there.  

The Great Wall is 6000 kilometers or 4000 miles. We will take a cable car to the wall access point. It was constructed in 7th century before Christ.  If you climb to the top of the wall you are a true hero.  If you climb to the top you can get a stamp. You need to know your animal year to get your stamp.   Our guide has the Chinese zodiac guide for us. My animal is the snake.  Dan is the rabbit.  

Rabbits are articulate talented and ambiguous.  They are admired and trusted and are generally kind and mostly patient.  

Snake people are meticulous say little listen much.  They have tremendous sympathy for others and are determined and hate to fail. 

Rabbits are kind considerate and a little bit self conceited.

Snakes are wealthy and intelligent.  This bit of the zodiac is from the internet.

People use these 12 animals of the zodiac because there is a legend from the Buddhist religion that Buddha  invited these animals for the new year. The mouse arrived first and pig was last to arrive.  Mouse, ox, tiger rabbit,dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig are the animals. 

The Great Wall was amazing and humbling.   We walked as far as we could go with the time we had.  The weather here was also smoggy but cool.  The tourists are everywhere and everyone in the little market area is hollering to you to come look.  After we walked the wall which is challenging with very uneven surfaces and uphill climbing we bought a shirt.  They guide told us to bargain so we thought we were.  We paid 75 Yuan for our shirts and then a couple later told us they go the same shirt for 30!!  Ha ha.  So we need to be better bargainers.   Aaron Lighter my son in law would not have been proud of me.  After we got done with the Wall you take a cable car down to the village.  Then our bus picked  us up.  The ride to and from the Wall is considered countryside with many farming areas and small villages.  

Our evening found us packing because the next day we would check out of our hotel and fly to Xian.  

Going to ride a rickshaw tomorrow in the Hutong district for $60 per couple. 

In an apartment building it might have 1600 people!! And the complex might have 25,000 people.  

People in the city follow the one child policy but not in the countryside.  If you have more than one child you pay a fine.  Maybe it is 5000 Yuan.   The price changes.  In the city it could be five times this.   If you work in the govt and don’t follow this in the city you lose your job.   

Beijing day three going to Hutong area for meeting a local family then on to rickshaw ride. Then we drive to summer palace in countryside.  See a large garden. We tour the palace then lunch.  Then we leave to go to the airport arriving around 2:30 for a flight at five to Xian!!

Today is a very smoggy day. Hutong means small alley.  Our hotel was wonderful : comfy beds, very clean, get huge breakfast and good maid service.  We definitely would recommend this hotel and its location.  Peace Novotel 

Our tour guide told us they have really improved on the air pollution but when we googled it we found in 2013 the particles that are polluting the air were at 700 and they should be at 25 or below!!! Not many people here wear masks and we think the government is telling them it’s ok.  There is a website you can check everyday to see what the particulates are. 

The private house we visit is 300 years old. Was once a ministry officials house.  Owners house was owned by his great grandfather and passed down.  After 1979 China reformed and houses went back to families.  His only daughter will inherit this house.  Per square meter this house would sell for $300 Yuan.  

Houses are now using electricity to heat instead of coal.  Older people prefer to live in d section because it is more community and friends. No toilets inside.   Area was smelly and very cluttered. It was depressing.  Many people were smoking and just looked down and out.  Rickshaw drivers are only available through a tour guide.  You can not just ask them for a ride.  They only are available in two areas of Beijing.  They operate in the bar area and in the Hutong.   The walled areas are called garden or mutual areas they share with four or five families.  The areas are packed with old broken things.  They are not gardens.  The cars and bikes are dirty and dusty and shoe the pollution.   When you use the public area toilets it is free but you must pay for the shower like you purchase a card for your shower for 30 Yuan.  These were not available to see.  They are run by a private company and staffed.  They are very clean.  

We headed to the summer palace next.  

We said here’s an idea for a t shirt.  “ I do street food and I’m still here”!!

Very large summer garden. 70% is Lake. The emperor would come here for summer vacation. Construction started around 900 years ago but was smaller. In 1750 the emperor made a reconstruction and in 1860 the French invaded China and was in the Qing dynasty.  The emperor moved to avoid attack.  The 8th emperor was only three years old when he came into power. His mother really controlled everything and was called dragonlady.  He died at 15 years old and she lost her power until she had another 4 year old boy take over as emperor and she ruled for 45 years.  She died at 70 and found the last emperor of the Qing dynasty.  She had her son her nephew and a boy from the Ministers family become emperors while she was living. She could choose anyone she wanted. Maybe this last child was really hers is the rumor.  

Empress of the palace on amazon prime is a good depiction movie of these times. Kylen was the mythical creature who was the emperors guide. The creature spoke many languages and was available from many miles to provide the emperor with vision and protection. The emperor in the summer palace have an opera area to perform only for him and the ministers.  No other people were allowed.  This was during the Qing dynasty. The dragon lady had 128 dishes prepared for every meal but only had a few.  She did this because she was afraid of being poisoned.  No one knew what she would choose or eat.  

Peace harmony and prosperity are the three animals depicted in the summer palace main quarters.  Her quarters consisted of four rooms; sleeping, reading, dressing and living.  The summer palace was crazy with tour groups!!  You could easily lose your guide. We had about 5 minutes at each palace location for photos.  You could not enter any of the buildings.  They were only viewable through plastic windows.  The long corridor to the lake has 14,000 pieces of different painted art painted along the huge walkway. The longest art gallery!  We took a dragon boat across the lake. You could barely see the lake! Dragon lady had a marble dragon boat built. Of course it can’t move!  It just displays her power. At one time a minister gave her a birthday gift in October thinking she would love it (it was a car!) but she didn’t because the driver was in front of her and she would no longer be first !! When she traveled with her hand chair she was always first as they carried her!! 

After the summer palace we once again had lunch and then were taken to the airport.  The security was very strong.  They wanded us before we entered the airport and made us gather in a group of about 50 people.  Then they let us enter the airport and move toward getting our tickets.  Our guide took us clear up to the security check again.  We all took carry on luggage.  Our flight got delayed and instead of getting to our hotel by 7 it was midnight and we were exhausted.  Our hotel was nice: the Grand Nobel in Zian.  We arranged to meet the next morning at 9 for another temple in the morning and then the Terracotta.   I was so tired.  About 4 that morning I woke up extremely ill throwing up and diarrhea... I couldn’t stop either.  Dan woke though I tried to be quiet.  It was evident I had what the poor man had in our group three days ago!!! There was no way I was going to be able to join the tour:(. I cried and wax so sick.  Dan found the group and told them my situation.  Thankfully the woman had more anti nausea pills, Zofran, and she shared one with me.  Finally by about noon I quit vomiting and could sleep the rest of the day.  Dan stayed and missed the Warriors too.  Our focus now was just to be able to get me strong enough to get on the plane the next day to fly to Shanghai and meet the ship.  I tried to drink some water and ate on cracker!  So the next morning I was able to get myself dressed and ready to catch the plane.  I decided not to eat anything till I got back to the ship and not risk it.  I had a bad headache but I made it.  We got to the ship by 3:00.  We had some soup and then took our hop on hop off voucher and decided to head out and see some of Shanghai. 

 

Our first lunch. 

 

 Temple of Heaven

 Beautiful gardens. Many said it was because their Congress was in session and they want everything to look good!!

Every building is huge !

I loved the turtle!  Peace and Prosperity 

 The seven dragons wall

Garden of EarthlyTranquility

Walking tiles all different and ornate

Tea ceremony  

Peace Novotel hotel 

A downtown street sign!!

Tea shop by our hotel. Giant tea pot that looks like it’s always pouring tea!

Look at all these bikes parked on the sidewalk.  People park them then go to their apartments. 

Hutong area.  Caged birds are everywhere.  No one can afford other pets. 

Have you ever seen a sign like this??

Temple of Heaven note the connecting pillars and this is the building with no nails. 

Beautiful colors inside and out. 

Huge areas 

Playing games on the railing areas. Cards, poker, knitting, socializing. 

 

Apartments are everywhere.  

Cable car to Great Wall 

 

We made it!!

 

The fall colors were beautiful 

Our group

 

Beijing at night

 

Our rickshaw ride in the Hutong.  The area is the old town and folks are so poor.  It was cramped, crowded, smelly and very sad looking.  They was dust and pollution particulates covering everything. 

The single wide street has street sellers and tiny shops selling vegetables and food items.  

They cover tires so dogs don’t urinate on them.  

A small shop 

Unique wall idea!!  Brooms were at every door and are the home made type always. 

Last stop Garden of Virtue and Harmony. 

Notice the poinsettias!!

The longest art gallery walkway which leads to the marble dragon boat and our lake cruise. So smoggy here we couldn’t see across the lake. 

Marble boat 

Smog :(

Our dragon boat ride. 

Another lunch. 

After my sickness episode we are finally at the Xian airport ready to fly back to Shanghai and meet the ship. These are the biggest gender symbols I have ever seen for bathrooms!!  Ha ha

Dans ready to head out !!  

Next stop Shanghai!