Monday, November 7, 2022

La Goulette, Tunisia


If we were chatting over coffee, at the pool, or on a porch I might ask you “What do you know about Tunisia and where exactly is it?”   Thankfully none of you ask me that question before I embarked on this enlightening journey.  When we booked this cruise and decided it would have novelty, be challenging and allow us to share with others through talking, taking photos and even blogging about it we knew it would be three pillars to happiness by engaging ourselves to the point where we physically and mentally pushed our limits.  We have not been disappointed.  I won’t say every tour or excursion has been top notch but as experienced travelers we have come to expect the unpredictable and then go with the flow and look for the positive.  
Sone facts and details about Tunisia that were totally new to us and possibly you are : LaGoulette is the port.  Tunisia is the smallest country in Africa.  There are 12,000,000 million people living here which are mostly Muslims.  1,000,000 Tunisians live outskirts de the country. To give you a comparison of the size of the country it is about 2/3 ‘s the size of Spain. One of Tunisias advantages is its strategic position being close to Europe for trade. Anciently it was ruled by Romans for a long time and then the French took possession of it for 70 years.  In 1956 it gained its independence.  The country values education for its citizens and it is free. Many children though do go to private schools and universities. Over 90 % are considered well educated. 
The geology of Tunisia is 60% agricultural and 40% desert. As we pass through on our bus tour the amount of garbage and litter is appalling.   It saddens me greatly and it’s a question I often ask of our guides.  “Tell me about the garbage I see everywhere and how your citizens feel about this”.   Most hesitate somewhat but it’s a question burning on everyone’s lips and I feel the tension build as we anticipate the response from the guides.  Most admit to the problem. They say the government is working on solutions but it’s difficult to stop old habits and that they don’t have the funds to collect garbage, recycle or find areas to dispose of it!!!! The oxymoron for me is that they boast of their organic produce because they don’t use chemicals but in reality their soil, water and air are polluted due to the garbage on land, in the water sources and the burning of certain piles of garbage that individuals choose to do to rid themselves of the disgusting piles.  Then there is the sanitation issues…..  

Tunisia as you might imagine is the 4th largest producer of olive oil with  more than 80 million olive trees.  The goal of the country is 100,000 million trees. They ship oil to over 70 countries.  Olives here are hand picked.  They no longer shake the trees as they discovered it truly harms them.  To harvest the olives they need 1,000,000 pickers.  No machines are used for picking.  They are struggling to get the workers they need because people are moving to other areas that pay better wages and choose jobs that are not so physically demanding. 


There are other Industries providing jobs here like car manufacturing, extraction of minerals such as iron and phosphate.   Algeria and Libya supply crude oil to Tunisia.  Arabic is their main language followed by English but like all countries there are different dialects.  Arabic is spoken in 24 countries.  A trained ear can determine what area you are from from your dialect.    


Aqueducts brought water to Carthage which were over 132 kilometers   There are still remnants of these huge impressive water ways.  It was an amazing feat that they were able to accomplish and provide water to so many villages and communities.  Certainly it was a highlight of our tour seeing the remnants of these amazing structures. 


We passed by the Oudna  amphitheater used for cultural activities, sports and other social events.  The original amphitheater held 16,000 people.  It was destroyed  and the 2nd one held 35,000.  A third  one was opened in 1999. 


I apologize for a blog that often times is so disorganized and may ramble.  For those of you who have cruised you know that they give port talks a few days about what’s coming up. So I attend and take notes.  Then you get on the tour and once again you are presented with more history and culture!   I love all that but trying to have enough time to mesh all this together in a flowing manner takes more time than I can muster!!  I still have to have time for fun 🛳️


Our tour guide takes us past many shops from ancient times that are prominent in Africa.  There are brightly painted doorways and mostly all you see are mosque’s , schools and palaces. alley ways are tight, narrow and crowded. In the 18th century wealthy people left for area where water was available and flowing.   The town and area began to decline and look shabby.  Communities  and the go dry are trying to upgrade and preserve their history.  It’s the livelihood of the people.   If you want to experience something different go early if possible to see the shop owners setting up when it’s not so busy.  Our tour included: lunch, The Mosque of Olives which is the oldest in Tunisia and has 9 entrances, The Old Medina, several museums and Sidi Bousaid.  Our tour was through Across Africa. The entire religious area covers over an acre of land.  It was the base point for scholars and religious leaders.  It may be built over the  tomb of Santa Olivia which is where the name comes from.  Originally it was built in 1834 and the restoration took place in the 1950s.  There are lots of green spaces.  Belvedere Park and the Tunis Zoo are closed on Mondays, Tuesdays , Wednesdays so if those are on your bucket list be aware if their schedules.  Bardo National Museum brings a lot of people to the city.  They offer a world class collection of art, sculptures and artifacts.  They have been closed for over a year after they were attacked and many things were ruined.  

The Historical palace dates  back to the 19th century and currently it too is under restoration.  It is known as the Palace of Letters and Arts and the details inside are amazing.   Sidi Bousaid was also on our tour.  It was built to protect the port of La. Goulette for major trading.  The area was designed to rival Rome.  It is a Unesco site.  Founded in 2nd century BCE it means new town.  Roman tradition is found here and is significant.  A lot of structures have been affected by wars.   There is controversy over exact dates of colonies and structures.  Carthage is the center of the shoreline built on a triangular area which allows access  to the Mediterranean and protects the harbor from storms.  It is a  strategic bottleneck position.  Of course you will find more commerce than art here but there is evidence of strong literature.  When Roman’s attacked the city many written documents and artifacts were destroyed.  Carthage was plundered and burned by Romans.  Many famous emperors never lived here or really came here.   But still it is one of the top tourist sites.   

Sidi Bousaid is  much like Santorini in its structures, colors and ambiance.   Go immerse yourself in alleys , streets, and small shops.  No cars are allowed here only pedestrians.  The feeling and atmosphere is very relaxed.  Admire the architecture,  beautiful vistas and the earlier you go the better.  You will notice that business picks  up at meal times.  A train line runs from the city.  Taxis are plentiful.   

There is a new  docking area is there for us.   Has a promenade area terminal building now that is more tourism friendly.  Today was very hot for us!!! 93!!!!!

The currency here is the Dinar.  TND. They will take euros and dollars.  1$= 3.25 dinar. You have ti be careful when they offer you something for a “dollar” because often it is THEIR dollar.  






Remnants of the amazing aqueduct 



A stop at the archaeological site to view the remnants of the amphitheater which was fascinating.  Many movies use this site because it is well preserved.  There are underground tunnels where animals were kept and then brought up for sales.  The seats had been covered by marble along with many walls but over the years that marble was stolen.  Marble on the walls kept the fighting bulls from being able to jump into the stands as their hooves slid off the wall.  



The view from the top of the site where the amphitheater was positioned. 

Looking down the steps leading to the theater 

A small portion of the overview if the amphitheater 

Many films show this area therefore the flags and drapes are hanging; in fact while we were there a filming crew was set up and in full production. 


Many of the seats were replaced after earthquakes shook them from their locations. 



Path of the aqueduct and history about it. 

Where the king and ruler would sit for the activities in the amphitheater 

The chariots still there probably to be used in film making. 

Dan and Chuck along with Betsy and I climb the stairs to the overview from the amphitheater and where guests and religious leaders would stay during activities.  

Can you believe this large section of the aqueduct still proudly stands?




One of the mosques and areas of prayer and reflection 


Small colorful and inviting alley ways. 

Every spare location has shops, cafes, colorful doorways and history. 

I loved these doors and colot



More ornate colorful areas


Gorgeous  





I wanted to show these two police vehicles with the wire cages over their windows … they have been attacked by gangs in the past and their vehicles destroyed along with officers being hurt. 

Unusual name for a street here!  I imagine he must have visited. 

Our lunch group



The local beer!


Celtia!  

A very delicious lunch of chicken, saffron rice and vegetables.  The other option was fish which folks agreed it was delicious too. 



Markets of Sidi Bousaid.  We really weren’t there long enough to fully explore.  

The Main Street goes uphill to a lovely restaurant where you over look the ocean. 


A stop for cafe espresso if you desire. 


“Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore.”  Andre Gide








2 comments:

Tess said...

It’s always hard to keep up with the dissemination of information to inform all of your bloggers… but don’t forget the most important part of all of this…. To experience each and everyone of these moments for yourself! Keep up the great documentation, but more importantly… enjoy the perfect present.

Vicki Harper said...

Thank you, Beth. This is all absolutely beautiful and historic. I have been enjoying your blog posts.

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