Thursday, December 29, 2022

Praia, IIha de Santiago, Cape Verde. "To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” – Aldous Huxley

We travel 410 miles off the coast of Senegal to an archipelago with a population of 1000,000.  The ten islands are more relaxed of which Praia is the capital of Santiago Island.  There has been trading and commerce around these islands since the 1700’s.  Those with sea faring skills migrated to all different pockets of the world. Praia is also the largest city on the island.  The economy is based on the Euro donor every place takes the dollar.  There is a Botanical Garden here with strong colonial history which is also a dark history. Praia means “ beach”. The main heart of the downtown is close to the port being just a 10 minute drive.  The entire island is just 50 miles long.  Tarrafal is at the opposite end of where we dock and has significant history.  There is also the Sucupira market where you can find all types of souvenirs and is open every day.  Places of interest include the Plateau District, the Alexander Albuquerque Square. Some smaller museums, Quebracho Canela Beach, the Cruz de Papa monument with sweeping views, Prainha Beach, Cidade Velha the old fort and the Assomada Market with hand made crafts. There is a trail to a scenic viewpoint called Serra Malagueta which is home to some endemic species that are also endangered.  
Terrafal was a concentration camp built by the Portuguese where they tortured prisoners.   The camp was built in 1943 by Salazar.  It now houses a small museum but it exudes sadness and horrors.  
Tarrafal beach is one of the most beautiful on the island with bars and restaurants.   The Botanical Gardens were created in 1986 and the sir 1300 ft above sea level. The currency here is CVE.   Euros are accepted.  Now the exchange is 1 Euro = 110 CVE

We had signed up for an Across Africa tour here many months ago.  We were to take a ferry across to Maio Island a trip of two hours one way.  When we got there we would explore Sao Jose Fortress, agricultural and fishing areas, sand dunes and the Handicraft area. We were to get picked up at 7:30 and first visit the Eco-Museum to learn about the history of the colonization rooted in exploitation of coal and salt. We would also visit Morro Village once we got across on the ferry known for its small colonial houses built with pyramid shaped tiles. We were to have lunch near Morrinho village and the white sand dunes brought from the Sahara Desert.  But….. a few days before they cancelled the tour due to the tides and the ferry crossing.  You would actually think someone would be able to tell us this sooner but they offered us a tour for the next port.  The four of us already had plans so we asked for a refund.   We decided to do our own thing here and it worked out ok :) 

Here are photos from the cruise directors talk 

Lots of lovely markets with large amounts of fruits and vegetables 

Alexander Square

The old fort area 

The map of the island and how far it was to Tarrafal

A map showing sone of the areas he spoke about so we had an idea of where we might want to go 


The old fort still well preserved 

Looks like their Supreme Court

Beautiful paintings like this of special people from the area decorate many buildings. 

Small pop up markets are everywhere 


This was taking place in the square when we got there. They were giving away free t shirts to promote the understanding of mental health especially in teens and here’s some of the dancing 



Betsy and Chuck stroll down through the shady areas with all the trees trimmed like a huge arch

Everyone is preparing for the holidays.  

You really can’t see it but this man has a treadle sewing machine!!!!  He is making things to sell and going a wonderful job.  

We walk through the markets which are tight and narrow.  The big canisters are full of clothing.  This is how things get shipped to them.  They pull things out of the canisters and try to sell them 

My friend Kate is on this adventure with us as we squeeze through all the people and products 

More containers 

You can see the clothes in this container 

You can see the woman in the right corner with her bags.  In the background is her small garden 

The woman on the right had her hand up and I didn’t see it. She is saying no picture.  My friend Kate explained so I was more careful. 

We take a taxi to a cute beachfront bar and restaurant for a beer and some French fries!!


Kate and Betsy share theirs with us!!  




Another wonderful day with friends. 





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