Monday, November 13, 2023

The Fabled Island of Castro, Chiloe

Tom Goltz was one of the guest presenters who joined us in Fort Lauderdale.  We never missed one of his presentations.  His knowledge and research intrigued us and his presentations kept us spellbound till the end.  He shared some of the historic background of Ecuador.  Honestly, not much of any country’s history is a happy story.  There is always greed, conquering and killing.  The Father of Independence in Ecuador was Simon Bolivar but Manuela was a precursor of and to women’s involvement in politics.  






Simón Bolívar was the liberator and fought for 11 years to free them from Spain. He was their first president and a military strategist.  


Eva Peron from Argentina, was also illegitimate. She often dressed as a man with rather salty language. She attached herself  to very powerful men.  Bolivar was Creole and  born in the new world. His parents were granted large tracts of land along with copper mines and sugar plantations. He had an enlightened mentor as a child and attended military school. He was well versed in both English and the French language.   He married young to a woman named Maria but she died of yellow fever soon after and he was crushed.  

Napoleon was in Spain in 1808 and took it over.

Bolivar crossed the Andes into Colombia coming from Venezuela.  He started out with 3000 soldiers but only 1500 survived. He defeated the Spaniards there in 1819.  This was the turning point for their independence.  He acquired legendary status for his feat.  


Manuela grew up in Quito in a wealthy white family and was sent to a Catholic school where she received a good education.  She could ride on horseback like a man and brandished weapons while being strong willed and very independent. Her parents sent her to Lima to marry Dr. James Thorn. Who was very old.  She was vivacious and beautiful.  She loved it in Lima and engaged in women’s groups.  Lima still at that time was controlled by Spain. She spied on them and delivered information to the liberators through her servants.  


San Jose de Martin helped to also liberate Peru. He met her while she was helping in hospitals with the wounded.  She became a member of the order of the Sun of Patriotic Women.  


Bolivar and San Martin met in Guayaquil in 1822. San Martin gave all his authority to Bolivar and Martin left to return to France. In 1822 Bolivar met Manuela in Quito.  She was 25 and he was 39.  He was a womanizer and known for it.  

He had fought in over 200 wars by the time he met her.  She was coy, unafraid and forthright.  He was suffering from TB. She cared for him at times and 

became the guardian of all his personal papers and confidants.  He totally trusted her and she was the archivist for all of his public and private documents. 

She was promoted as an honorary colonel for her activities in the final battle.  

She left her husband and moved in with Bolivar as he was now president .  Bolivar freed as slaves he felt natives should  be given land but was disappointed that it didn’t happen more widespread during his lifetime.   This was from the influence of his forward thinking mentor. 


Bolivar died of TB at 47 and was exiled. Manuela was exiled to a small village in Paita Peru and died at 59 of diphtheria.  



And now for some information on Castro, the Oldest city in Chile.  The city of Castro is on the Isle of Chloe.  Many of the houses along the shore are wooden homes built on stilts  on stilts.   The insides are lovely and well kept up. It is a popular stop over for back packers going from isle to isle or going to the national park.  It’s also a very walkable city with many historic churches.   From Robinson Crusoe Isle we traveled  720 miles.  There are approximately 48,000 residents living here.  We arrive at 8 and tender into a large platform. We sail away at 4:30.  Our weather was perfect at about about 59 degrees for highs partly cloudy.  We walked by the  Market, San Francisco church, the   Plaza de Armas and the main square.  The Women’s Cooperative was not open which we had wanted to shop in.   There is also a UNESCO Jesuit church and a regional museum. 


There is a Rain forest here in the national park with a large lake and coastal dunes.  It could be likened to  the Washington or Oregon coast.  


The day we are here is Reformation Day which is a    public holiday. Should not affect our attendance although many places may be closed. 


So what are Palafitos?   These are the beautiful stilted houses along the shoreline that you can rent as B and B’s!! 



We never could find this even though we tried. 



This photo looks better than it did in person. It needed lots of structural improvements 





Some of the unique and interesting churches of the area.  The ship actually had a tour of about 16 churches all being different and of different faiths.  Folks said it was a great tour. 



A shot of the Chloe National Park. 



An unusual platform for us to disembark to but very stable and easy. 




And here is another shot of the map showing you Castro our last stop before we hit the Fjords and Strait of Magellan.



The terminal with wifi and information and where buses pick you up for excursions. 

Every town has their colorful signage and it’s a challenge to get a shot without a person standing there!



A nice inviting park close by with lots of benches.  We found benches everywhere!!



If you make this larger it really is quite a good map of the sights, tourist points and historical locations and you can see where we anchored. 



A lot of uniquely carved statues were found along the main way through town.  I’m sure they signify the hard working people who developed the town and gave so much of themselves.  




As you can see on this one they have Chilean names but I couldn’t find anything in English that was readable about them. They were all on one side of the street. I was fascinated with the workmanship and how many there were!!







You can see the next one in the background. 



Houses on stilts??







Outside the Church of San Francisco 



Beautiful woodworking 





One of the beautiful city parks.  Very clean and well taken care of with many benches. 



Can you see the black faced Ibis here?  He was very noisy but thank goodness for the Merlin app we figured out who he was!! 



Such tiled detailed around the bandshell stilt houses again! 


And the beautiful bandshell itself.  A work of art!!!  



Dan ahead of me but I loved the birds on this shop sign ! Bird books???



Just some lovely orange flowers in the park 



Our ship anchored from the dock area 



And then guess what!!  Today was Halloween and the staff knocked themselves out with food carvings and decorations.  That night there was also a Halloween party but too late for us.  We heard it was well attended and some great costumes!!



They make these display cakes but not to be eaten.  Some of us think maybe it’s not a cake just frosting on a form 




One of my favorites!!





Houses on stilts seen as we leave port. 



I gave my mask to to Kei for the staff party and she loved it! 



Dan gave his crazy mask to our other waiter and he wore it all night and was a big hit!!



And then we spotted this couple with their cow costumes on sitting on the cows in the sea view pool!!!





Sailing away that night seeing our first glacier!!!



“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm, and adventure.  There is no end to the adventures we can have if we only seek them with our eyes open.”  Jawarahal Nehru 




1 comment:

Tess said...

You kids are silly. Love the houses on stilts. Very colorful. Glad the Merlin app helped you out too.

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