Wednesday, December 13, 2023

Bay of All Saints

That title sounds like a safe place to be doesn’t it??  Our stop today November 25th is on a shielded large bay area from the Atlantic Ocean.  This city is the third largest in Brazil and is sprawling for miles and miles inland from the coast.  There is a 100 meter cliff that runs along the entire bay that separates the high city from the lower city.  The d city area or Pelourinho, has many historical sites including colonial architecture, museums, restaurants, bars, hostels, artisan shops and many academies for music, dance and capoeira.   The streets are cobblestone and wind along all of this.  Lots of bus traffic comes into this port which as you have figured out is Salvador de Bahia.  To get between the upper and lower sections you can take the Elevator Lacerda or the cable car which is very inexpensive like fifteen cents US.  The streets between can be dangerous so we are warned to be aware and cautious.  There is a Mercado Modelo within walking distance of the cruise ship terminal.   We are here from 8-11 which is late especially when they caution you about crime against tourists!!  
Most of the history of Salvador is sad. They believe there may have been 5 million slaves from the Angola area from 1550-1850 to come through this port!  It actually depopulated Angola.  The culture reflects this everywhere and is most evident here. This port imported things from everywhere.  Most of the population is Catholic with the priests and missionaries that came from Portugal. 


The area provides huge sections of farming. In 1549 this was the capital of Bahia, the state, and sugar cane was the major crop. When gold was discovered south of the area the miners all came to Salvador to sell it and most of that gold just disappeared.  A new road was built going to Rio and in 1763 Rio became the capital. 


One of the dances to come from this region is the Samba. When you do the Samba you push out back and forth from the belly button and you don’t move around a lot.  

The people form a ring and clap and sing as you dance in the center.  Colored beads and vibrant clothing represents a deity. This is a very strong culture in Salvador.  Each person has a deity that governs them and provides them with spiritual energy. The people are very dedicated to their roots and their culture. They even put out food for their deity’s on a corner outdoors.  Their rituals take place outdoors because of the forces of nature. 


In Nigeria the turban is worn but Brazil head coverings are different.  


The ship provided a free shuttle into town here which took around 20-30 minutes due to traffic at times.  We decided to do our own thing here. The upper town was scheduled to have a very large festival and celebration beginning after lunch so in order to avoid large crowds and possibly getting robbed we went there first to see the historical buildings and took the elevator.  Then we went to the lower city to finish up.  We got in a lot of steps even though it was pretty warm.  



We had a wonderful reception here from women from the community doing traditional dances in their traditional costumes which must have been hot 





A strikingly different statue with no plaque or interpretation but it caught my eye! 

Tributes to the slaves who were brought against their will and to the many that gave their lives….

The mixing of cultures… but many buildings looked in disrepair even with the large murals 

This is a shot of the elevator that takes you up to the upper city and Dans on his way. He carries all our important things like our phones, money, water, first aid kit, a small fan for me and even sometimes he took wash clothes and bags of ice insulated to put on my neck!!!  Can’t ask for a better partner.  Notice the tilework on the public walking areas. 

The music venue like a concert hall . 


The shops beside the elevator… very old and run down 

Now we are up to the top and the upper city which is very old too.  The architecture is impressive but needs renovations 

Monument to the first governor….

Tome de Sousa monument 

One of the nicest and most beautiful buildings in the upper city. Most of the Main Street entrances are shops. I think the upper floors may be residences. 

This is at a high point overlooking the bay and city and was having some work done to it as seen by the scaffolding. It’s a tribute to their famous slave  poet with his arm outstretched to the slaves.  




It has a protective grate around it and is in front of a theater .  


From the upper city overlooking the harbor. 

Colorful flags were displayed and maybe it was part of their big celebration on this day. 

This large hotel that was once famous is now where homeless live.  The graffiti was overwhelming…. 

This was on the side of a building portraying their enslaved history 

They have their Carnaval too like other Brazilian cities. 


Another unique painting on a building showing painful pride to me 


This old church in disrepair stands still amidst power lines and poor dwellings but is used.   It was originally built in 1529 then torn down to widen the street and rebuilt in 1923. 

A statue of the Padre in front of the church with a patron praying I’m sure for a better life 

This unique iron cut fence was around the building below which is the National Afro Cultural Museum 



Here’s how many get clean water to take to their homes. 

And as we have seen in many places around the world just hang out your laundry!!  As we passed this building there was loud festive music coming from inside which I imagine is getting them in the spirit for the upcoming festival in the afternoon. 


Another very old and unique church in the upper city. 

People now gathered in the lower city doing some shopping. More monuments and architecture that make for interesting viewing. 

I saw this long tall cool drink inside a shop!!

A primary bishop in 1552!

Two children entertaining themselves with an iPad while their parents work in a small shop. 

The Mercado Modelo was built in 1912 and used by the government till 1971as a customs office.  Now it is home to many vendors who sell their wares. 



And outside the Mercado we stopped for a cold one!  Then it was back to the ship to cool down and rest our tired feet!!





“Your past experiences will flavour your future ones, that is human nature.” Deborah Cater 



1 comment:

Tess said...

Another interesting stop along your journey! Almost time to come home.

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