“As you move through this life… you leave marks behind, however shall. and in return, life-and travel-leaves marks on you.” Anthony zbourdain

Souda, Crete

I have been desperately trying to post my blog for several days but to no avail.  From deck 9 to the coffee shop, to the pool area and right in front of the front desk but no luck.  So it may be that once we get to our next port many entries will appear all at once.  They started our coffee chats and they have been in the main theater and packed.  Along with that Kate Ross, my friend and excellent guest speaker, has a full house.  People come at least 45 minutes early to get a seat.  She is a master speaker, historian, human being and professional.   If you are ever fortunate to hear her lecture don’t miss the opportunity.  You will be amazed and in awe.

So besides listening to her on sea days I have also been doing the craft classes and working on my blog.  I’ve had a few days lounging on deck three which is such a joy and so relaxing.  I’ve met so many interesting people at everything I attend.  My internet toons often are to write and then someone appears, conversation begins and the time flies.   But isn’t this part of the wonder of travel?   Meeting people from all over the world, listening to their experiences and being a sounding board for them to release their anxieties, joys, accomplishments and fears.   I had not expected to meet so many older joyful people but they are impressive and provide inspiration. 

Our tour in Souda, Greece was on October 26 and also the day Kate boarded. Our tour was with  Across Africa tours and called tour of the 7 Villages of Apokoronas.  It was a six hour excursion where we visited ancient monuments, beautiful villages and scenic countryside.  Our guide was a lovely lady named Linda who originally was from Belgium.  Sone of our stops included visiting an Ottoman fortress and fork lore museum,visiting a cheese factory and tasting their cheese whic is a mixture of goat milk and lambs milk, visiting a Raki distillery and imbibing in some strong but tingling spirits, tasting extra virgin olive oil with warm bread from a small local bakery, exploring the old Chania market which is pronounced Hania. The market has everything including Cretan cheese, olives, wine, Raki,herbs, and quite a few taverns.  I loved the Raki and always Frank mine and Dans!!! To me it tasted like a smooth tequila.  One distillery offered us three different flavors and yup!  I tasted all of them and Dans :).  There is a restaurant at the top of the market area called The Blue Restaurant.  We chose to walk the city area and find our own restaurant while exploring the beautiful bay.  The area was full of families and visitors.  Several glass bottom boats were there for tourists along with a pirate boat.  The area was just like something out of a travel book.  

The waterfront area had great food, beautiful architecture built on salt beds and is one of deepest natural harbors.  This location is utilized by NATO.  Most tourists make the trip to Chania, 4 miles from the harbor, which is the old town.  In the  13th center this area was under Venetian’s rule.  It was a  major trade center.  They had to anchor out and use smaller ships to bring in products for the old harbor.  The Turks built a mosque in 1639 but it Is no longer a mosque.   IT’s architecture is lovely and unique. The Germans invaded in 1922 as were so many other countries during this time. 

The Currency is the euro but they took dollars and credit cards. 

Ouzo is the local strong alcohol made here at maybe 4o% alcohol.  We are with Across Africa Tours and have several tours with Mary Anne Moore.  The day of our tour was called good weather babies; when born in Greece babies are are named after their grandmother.  It is called a Dimitri day.  If you know someone with a form of this name you call them and wish them well.  Happy name day.  It is actually in the Greek calendar.  People drop by your home.  At church they have a service.  

Our port here is a Commercial port. We are on time leaving at 11:35.  It will be a full day.  Typical port area.  Rough, graphite, island of the gorges.  Not all walkable.  

Lots of ferries go from here.   6-7 flights come and go a day from airport.   They gow citrus and avocado.  No chemicals here are used.   There also is an  American military base here.  Oleanders grow here here but it is very rocky and litter is horrendous.  How can grieving things here be organic. 

We visited the Apokorono villages.  

In 1913 they became part of Greece.  They were occupied by many countries for a long time. It has been very poor for so long.  People existed off local foods.   Hitler wanted to take Crete and many ships were sunken here in the war.   

The island is 160 miles long.  The White mountains get snow.  Only Alpine skiing takes place here as there are no lifts.  

Sone areas are over 8500 ft high.  Earthquakes have happened here and destroyed historic buildings. The Rocky soils are full of fossils here.  Some of the valley areas are very fertile.  Olive trees grow here. There are three zones here: Alpine zone Mediterranean zone and the sun tropic zone.  Much fruit grows here like quince, cherries, peaches, pear, apple, guava, papaya, grapes, citrus  and walnuts 

Our visit first area we visit is very green which means water has been tapped.   In Crete cheese is good.  They never drink without something to eat.   They have at least 66 wines houses.  

Man who wrote song for Zorba the Greek lived here and built an amphitheater.  It is made of limestone and   Accommodates 2000 people.  Villas always have springs or cisterns.  Architecture is reflective of the ottomans.  Acoustics are fantastic.  

Laurel tree leaves make an oil for antithesis .  

All acapella music is sung in the Greek Orthodox Church.  

Sounds change each week with a different tone.  

The church is built into the rock. Silver tokens are placed on the eyes of the saints for healing.  Byzantine music helps people to pray.  This Church was built in the  7th century.  

Our buffett was delicious  with goat and sheep cheese.  Dip cheese in honey for a delicious treat and taste experience. We have a very strong alcoholic wine which is  47 % alcohol.  It  tastes almost like vodka.  Very strong.  

The Monastery-is our next stop.   St. George is the name.  

We stop for another Raki tasting which takes two months and is made from grape skins. 

Still 100% copper steel is used for the bats that hold the alcohol. 

Our first area looks green with abundant olive trees 

Small monument houses note where someone has passed and provide honor to the soul 

Vista from the church built into the caves with small amphitheater that has perfect sound no matter where you sit 

Inside the church with the walls and ceiling of the cave. 

Inside the church 

Beautiful architecture with the caves walls 

From the open window of the cave church

The small delicious bakery where we sampled their wares 

 

They make large bags of dry bread to sell so folks aren’t baking every day 

Sampling breads, cheeses, oils, honey, and Raki!!! Yum!

Betsy and Chuck finding a shady place to enjoy their snack 

Photos from the historic monastery. 

Look at all the cooking oil that is used.  One family may use up to 25 of these in a year.  Pure olive oil. 

Another sampling of Raki and bread at the monastery 

The monastery is being refurbished 

I loved the small windows and the plants. 


On top of the buildings you could view the valley and enjoy the leave and quiet. 

Another unique remembrance house for the spirit 

The distillery where we were given a great tour then three different kinds of samples, bread, oil and olives in a lovely setting. 

I’m pretty happy with the Raki!! 

They also served fresh vegetables 

Now on to the oil production plant.  Very interesting and something we have never seen. This was the old way to press the grapes. 

Another old press used in the past 

The oldest olive tree in the area 100’s of years old 

This truck takes all the sludge from the presses many times a day.  They use it for feed for animals and they also sometimes pack it and dry it for fuel 

The olive oil processing plant 

Showing us how the get sorted and dumped from burlap bags into the bins 

The olives moving up the conveyor belt being washed and sorted more with tasting of the oils with bread below 

Going to Sidi Bousaid and their market 

Oh!!!! More Ouzo which is just as tasty as Raki 🥂

Such a catchy colorful mannequin

History from the Byzantine era about the wall of Chania as seen below.  



Look at these beaded hangars!!! Never have seen this before and they were beauty and unique.  

Our restaurant where we ate and got a free bottle of wine!

Betsy and Chuck hanging in there with us as we made it back to the ship 

The harbor of Chania with glass bottom boats, pirate ships and interesting shops and restaurants.  You can see the Turkish temple which is no longer used. 


We rode the ship shuttle home with it being all lit up and ready for us to board and soon move on. 

La Goulette, Tunisia

If we were chatting over coffee, at the pool, or on a porch I might ask you “What do you know about Tunisia and where exactly is it?”   Thankfully none of you ask me that question before I embarked on this enlightening journey.  When we booked this cruise and decided it would have novelty, be challenging and allow us to share with others through talking, taking photos and even blogging about it we knew it would be three pillars to happiness by engaging ourselves to the point where we physically and mentally pushed our limits.  We have not been disappointed.  I won’t say every tour or excursion has been top notch but as experienced travelers we have come to expect the unpredictable and then go with the flow and look for the positive.  

Sone facts and details about Tunisia that were totally new to us and possibly you are : LaGoulette is the port.  Tunisia is the smallest country in Africa.  There are 12,000,000 million people living here which are mostly Muslims.  1,000,000 Tunisians live outskirts de the country. To give you a comparison of the size of the country it is about 2/3 ‘s the size of Spain. One of Tunisias advantages is its strategic position being close to Europe for trade. Anciently it was ruled by Romans for a long time and then the French took possession of it for 70 years.  In 1956 it gained its independence.  The country values education for its citizens and it is free. Many children though do go to private schools and universities. Over 90 % are considered well educated. 

The geology of Tunisia is 60% agricultural and 40% desert. As we pass through on our bus tour the amount of garbage and litter is appalling.   It saddens me greatly and it’s a question I often ask of our guides.  “Tell me about the garbage I see everywhere and how your citizens feel about this”.   Most hesitate somewhat but it’s a question burning on everyone’s lips and I feel the tension build as we anticipate the response from the guides.  Most admit to the problem. They say the government is working on solutions but it’s difficult to stop old habits and that they don’t have the funds to collect garbage, recycle or find areas to dispose of it!!!! The oxymoron for me is that they boast of their organic produce because they don’t use chemicals but in reality their soil, water and air are polluted due to the garbage on land, in the water sources and the burning of certain piles of garbage that individuals choose to do to rid themselves of the disgusting piles.  Then there is the sanitation issues…..  

Tunisia as you might imagine is the 4th largest producer of olive oil with  more than 80 million olive trees.  The goal of the country is 100,000 million trees. They ship oil to over 70 countries.  Olives here are hand picked.  They no longer shake the trees as they discovered it truly harms them.  To harvest the olives they need 1,000,000 pickers.  No machines are used for picking.  They are struggling to get the workers they need because people are moving to other areas that pay better wages and choose jobs that are not so physically demanding. 

There are other Industries providing jobs here like car manufacturing, extraction of minerals such as iron and phosphate.   Algeria and Libya supply crude oil to Tunisia.  Arabic is their main language followed by English but like all countries there are different dialects.  Arabic is spoken in 24 countries.  A trained ear can determine what area you are from from your dialect.    

Aqueducts brought water to Carthage which were over 132 kilometers   There are still remnants of these huge impressive water ways.  It was an amazing feat that they were able to accomplish and provide water to so many villages and communities.  Certainly it was a highlight of our tour seeing the remnants of these amazing structures. 

We passed by the Oudna  amphitheater used for cultural activities, sports and other social events.  The original amphitheater held 16,000 people.  It was destroyed  and the 2nd one held 35,000.  A third  one was opened in 1999. 

I apologize for a blog that often times is so disorganized and may ramble.  For those of you who have cruised you know that they give port talks a few days about what’s coming up. So I attend and take notes.  Then you get on the tour and once again you are presented with more history and culture!   I love all that but trying to have enough time to mesh all this together in a flowing manner takes more time than I can muster!!  I still have to have time for fun 🛳️

Our tour guide takes us past many shops from ancient times that are prominent in Africa.  There are brightly painted doorways and mostly all you see are mosque’s , schools and palaces. alley ways are tight, narrow and crowded. In the 18th century wealthy people left for area where water was available and flowing.   The town and area began to decline and look shabby.  Communities  and the go dry are trying to upgrade and preserve their history.  It’s the livelihood of the people.   If you want to experience something different go early if possible to see the shop owners setting up when it’s not so busy.  Our tour included: lunch, The Mosque of Olives which is the oldest in Tunisia and has 9 entrances, The Old Medina, several museums and Sidi Bousaid.  Our tour was through Across Africa. The entire religious area covers over an acre of land.  It was the base point for scholars and religious leaders.  It may be built over the  tomb of Santa Olivia which is where the name comes from.  Originally it was built in 1834 and the restoration took place in the 1950s.  There are lots of green spaces.  Belvedere Park and the Tunis Zoo are closed on Mondays, Tuesdays , Wednesdays so if those are on your bucket list be aware if their schedules.  Bardo National Museum brings a lot of people to the city.  They offer a world class collection of art, sculptures and artifacts.  They have been closed for over a year after they were attacked and many things were ruined.  

The Historical palace dates  back to the 19th century and currently it too is under restoration.  It is known as the Palace of Letters and Arts and the details inside are amazing.   Sidi Bousaid was also on our tour.  It was built to protect the port of La. Goulette for major trading.  The area was designed to rival Rome.  It is a Unesco site.  Founded in 2nd century BCE it means new town.  Roman tradition is found here and is significant.  A lot of structures have been affected by wars.   There is controversy over exact dates of colonies and structures.  Carthage is the center of the shoreline built on a triangular area which allows access  to the Mediterranean and protects the harbor from storms.  It is a  strategic bottleneck position.  Of course you will find more commerce than art here but there is evidence of strong literature.  When Roman’s attacked the city many written documents and artifacts were destroyed.  Carthage was plundered and burned by Romans.  Many famous emperors never lived here or really came here.   But still it is one of the top tourist sites.   

Sidi Bousaid is  much like Santorini in its structures, colors and ambiance.   Go immerse yourself in alleys , streets, and small shops.  No cars are allowed here only pedestrians.  The feeling and atmosphere is very relaxed.  Admire the architecture,  beautiful vistas and the earlier you go the better.  You will notice that business picks  up at meal times.  A train line runs from the city.  Taxis are plentiful.   

There is a new  docking area is there for us.   Has a promenade area terminal building now that is more tourism friendly.  Today was very hot for us!!! 93!!!!!

The currency here is the Dinar.  TND. They will take euros and dollars.  1$= 3.25 dinar. You have ti be careful when they offer you something for a “dollar” because often it is THEIR dollar.  

Remnants of the amazing aqueduct 

A stop at the archaeological site to view the remnants of the amphitheater which was fascinating.  Many movies use this site because it is well preserved.  There are underground tunnels where animals were kept and then brought up for sales.  The seats had been covered by marble along with many walls but over the years that marble was stolen.  Marble on the walls kept the fighting bulls from being able to jump into the stands as their hooves slid off the wall.  

The view from the top of the site where the amphitheater was positioned. 

Looking down the steps leading to the theater 

A small portion of the overview if the amphitheater 

Many films show this area therefore the flags and drapes are hanging; in fact while we were there a filming crew was set up and in full production. 


Many of the seats were replaced after earthquakes shook them from their locations. 

Path of the aqueduct and history about it. 

Where the king and ruler would sit for the activities in the amphitheater 

The chariots still there probably to be used in film making. 

Dan and Chuck along with Betsy and I climb the stairs to the overview from the amphitheater and where guests and religious leaders would stay during activities.  

Can you believe this large section of the aqueduct still proudly stands?

One of the mosques and areas of prayer and reflection 

Small colorful and inviting alley ways. 

Every spare location has shops, cafes, colorful doorways and history. 

I loved these doors and colot



More ornate colorful areas


Gorgeous  

I wanted to show these two police vehicles with the wire cages over their windows … they have been attacked by gangs in the past and their vehicles destroyed along with officers being hurt. 

Unusual name for a street here!  I imagine he must have visited. 

Our lunch group



The local beer!


Celtia!  

A very delicious lunch of chicken, saffron rice and vegetables.  The other option was fish which folks agreed it was delicious too. 

Markets of Sidi Bousaid.  We really weren’t there long enough to fully explore.  

The Main Street goes uphill to a lovely restaurant where you over look the ocean. 


A stop for cafe espresso if you desire. 

“Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore.”  Andre Gide

Casablanca, Marakesh Not to be Forgotten

How many of you have seen the movie Casablanca and felt those strong urges to someday visit and take in the romance and ambiance that Ricks Cafe provided.  It has been on my bucket list and then knowing we were coming to Africa and we saw that from a Casablanca you could get to Marakesh it became one of the tours we signed up with from Tours Across Africa.  As I may have said before we have NO tours with Holland. They are extremely overpriced.  If any of you would like me to send you the link to their tours for this trip let me know.  Typically we have gotten this printed package by mail.  We did not.  Then we usually could pick it all up on board or it was in our cabin.  That didn’t happen.  Grand Cruises typically gave us stationary with Grand whatever on it and a nice pen.  Didn’t happen.  The front of the ship was painted Grand Asia or Grand Africa… didn’t happen.  Carpets and mats said Grand Asia or Grand Africa.  Didn’t happen.   So many things have changed.  I still tell you although people have scolded me for it that many areas on the ship are too warm.  The Lido can be very warm. When the theater fills it’s too warm.   Anyway our thermostat is still on the lowest setting and we are never cold. 

But on to our story.  Casablanca is the largest city in the county and the most import port.  It is the economic and cultural hub but not the capital. History was made here well before Roman settlements came. In the 1920’s it came into its’ own.  An unusual fact is that the town was laid out by an aerial survey.  The massans mosque is a distinctive trajectory and more modern.  Art deco is found here in the old Messina along with new architecture.  Coastline is full of beaches … you could easily spend a week here and not see it all.   Small cafes are down every nook and cranny.  

A major commercial port is where we dock. It requires a shuttle to get to downtown which is free of charge.  Drop off is at the United Nations square. The largest  Mosque here can hold up to 25,000 worshippers.  It demonstrates the Best of Moroccan architecture.  Along with being stunning it is the tallest of its kind and tallest in Morocco.   A laser beam at night lights up the area and signifies the light always overcomes the dark.   Maximum of 125,000 worshippers can gather at the Mosque using inside and outside areas.

It took 6 years to build this beautiful mosque whic was completed in 1993.   6000 master craftsman worked on this.  It is open to non Muslims to visit.  There is a dress code which means you are decently and respectfully dressed.  No t shirts or pants above the knee.  Head scarves are not required.   Local tours are about 45 minutes.  

Rick’s cafe is famous for the movie Casablanca and still operates.  French/ Moroccan influence is felt here. As time goes by is played on the piano continually and the movie plays in the background.  It is located in a grand mansion.  It’s open only from 12-3.  Then 6:30 till midnight.  It is well priced.  

The only museum devoted to Judaism in the world is here, Museum of Moroccan Judaism.   Simon Levy was an activist and champion of human rights.  He helped to get this established. 

To get to Marakesh is at least 2 -3 hours by bus along desolate poor areas. The road is in good repair but there are not many places to get off or get fuel.  Narrow alleyways are within Marakesh as were in 100’s of years ago. Olive oils, shoes, spices, and antiques are found here but you have to barter or negotiate.   You will stroll by numerous outdoor cafes.  Notre Dame Lourdes Church is here and holds 20,000 parishioners.

Palace is extravagant and  the gem of Morocco.  Not open to public without pre arranged visit.   

New Medina has lots of merchants.  They say they are v ery friendly.  Streets are lined with Eateries and Moroccan treats.  

Lots of landmark square areas.  Lots of preservation going on.  French influence tried to make their presence known.   There is an are known for the pigeons or pigeon square.  It even shows up on Google maps!!

The largest mosque and so exquisite.  

The Medina which has everything you could want 

The kings palace heavily guarded 

Pigeon square found in google maps!


Marakesh at night in all it’s glory. 

Now for the rest of the story …. There were four vans of us going.  Town got ahead of us and the two stayed together.  It’s a long drive as stated before.  The van ahead of us lost their AC.  We both pulled over and after a few minutes they seemed to get it working again.  Then about another 19 miles down the road it completely quit.  It was ghastly hot outside and no shade around.  Only one of our guides spoke English.  He began calling for more vans or taxis but the toll road to Marakesh has far and few places between that can provide assistance.  We were at a nice shady gas station with snacks and clean restrooms.  About 12 of us talked about our dilemma and decided at this late date we wanted to return to the ship and avoid another breakdown which might mean we wouldn’t see Marakesh or we might not make it back to the ship.  6 people wanted to go on.  The held on to their seats in the van and spoke in an uncivil vile tongue to our guides.  They pointed fingers and called them liars.   They yelled and were the worst example of rude and uncontrollable passengers I’ve ever seen.   Honestly I was mortified.  I went up to one guide and hugged him.  I told him we are not all like that from the US and Canada.  Many of us tipped them.  It was decided since they wouldn’t budge that all 17 would ride in a 15 passenger van with the guides.  Several had to stand.  The roads had few to no exits where we. Hold turn around and meet the next van.  So to sum it up we never made it to Marakesh.   We rode for almost 8 hours in a van with little more than a bottle of water and any snacks we brought.  We write to our Across Africa Tour arranger Megan and profusely apologized.  We also told our tour operator Mary Anne Moore how embarrassed and ashamed we were if those passengers.  I told her I would not ride on another tour with them.  It was a bit of excitement we could certainly have done without but the rest of our civil group have bonded and we have a good story to share now !!

Our last stop before getting to the ship was the huge mosque which holds over 1,000,000 people between the inside and outside areas.  All faiths are welcome. 

How people live along the road to Marakesh.  See the donkey to the right.  

.  The donkey under the tree in a very rocky rough dry environment.